Saturday, December 17, 2016

Fort Bowie, Arizona December 9, 2016

                                   Ruins of the Butterfield Stage Station

This post is number one in a series of posts I am doing which highlights the Apache experience in the Southwest.

Directions: To reach Fort Bowie Historical Park from Tucson, Arizona, take Interstate 10 east to Bowie, Arizona, Exit the interstate and drive downtown looking for the signs showing the turn off for the fort. This road is passable to all vehicles and there is only about 1 mile of dirt road travel.

Short history: The Butterfield Overland Stage Rout was a stage coach service starting in Memphis, Tennessee and Saint Louis, Missouri, and ending in San Fransisco, California. This route was built as a way to better connect the east and west coasts (Info from In Southeastern Arizona, water is a scarce resource and Apache Springs was an important water source before travelers crossed the Dos Cabesas Mountains by way of Apache Pass.

Prior to the Bascom Affair, the great Apache Chief Cochise generally left alone preferring to raid the provinces of Sonora and Chihuahua in northern Mexico. This would change in 1861 because of a pivotal event in Arizona history called the Bascom Affair. In 1861, Cochise and some of his followers were summoned near present day Apache Spring by Lt. Bascom for a meeting regarding the kidnapping of a little boy. Bascom accused Cochise and the Chiricahua Apaches of the kidnapping. Cochise denied any involvement, however, Bascom did not believe him and announced his intention to detain the Apaches until the return of the boy. Cochise escaped by cutting a hole in the tent and running for the hills. After escaping Cochise's men took a number of hostages in an attempt to negotiate the release of  his band members. Bascom refused and over time Cochise became enraged which led Cochise to kill the American hostages. Bascom responded by hanging all six Apaches.

The Bascom Affair had a negative effect on Apache-American relations. Cochise infuriated by the death of his brother and fellow Apaches, responded by raiding Butterfield stage coaches as well ranches throughout southern Arizona. As a response of the raiding, the U.S. Army established Camp Bowie to protect Apache Springs, travelers and southern Arizona residents from Apache depredations. After Cochise's death in 1877, the Apaches were removed from the Chiricahua Mountains to the San Carlos Reservation along the Salt River. Many Apaches did not want to be confined at San Carlos and followed Geronimo on a breakout from the reservation to continue raiding in Arizona and Mexico.

The American Army responded with a prolonged campaign against Geronimo. In 1862 Camp Bowie was upgraded to Fort Bowie. At the height of the Geronimo campaign, Fort Bowie had about 1000 men and women living in the canyon. The fort also had a pool hall, tennis court, and a Victorian two-story Commanding Officer's Quarters. In 1886 Geronimo and his supporters surrendered ending the Apache-Indian wars. The Apaches were transferred to Fort Bowie before being loaded onto trains at Holbrook, Arizona, where they were transferred to a prisoner-of-war camp in Florida.

After the Indian wars the fort's importance declined drastically until it was abandoned in 1894. A rancher owned the property and he scavenged the buildings for wood. In 1960 congress designated Fort Bowie as a National Historic Site. Today Fort Bowie is managed in a state of decay and there are no plans for restoration (Information from Arizona Ghost Towns and Mining Camps by Philip Varney and Cochise by Edwin Sweeney).

Visitor Information: If you visit  there is a three mile round trip trail that takes visitors to the main ruins in the park. Highlights include the Butterfield Stage Coach Station, Post cemetery, Apache Spring, Indian Agency and the ruins of the main fort itself. A visitor center is open Wednesday - Sunday 8 am to 5 pm. Inside the visitor center a number of artifacts are on display . There are also post cards, t-shirts and books for sell. If visitors are interested a return trip over a hill gives hikers a fantastic view of the fort ruins and surrounding mountains. Please refrain from defacing the ruins or removing items from the park.

                                  The Butterfield Stage Coach Trail looking towards Apache Pass

                                Grave of John Slater who was killed by Apache Indians

                                 Medal of Honor recipient Orisoba Spence

                               Little Robe, son of Geronimo

                               Apache Indian Agency

                             Quintin inside a reproduced Native American living quarters

                                                 The famous Apache Springs

                                 Ruins of the fort baracks

                                             The school

                          Ruins around the parade grounds where the Calvary used to parade

                       The Commander's living quarters

                                     The Fort barracks

                         Quintin and I next to a working howitzer on the wrap-around porch of the visitor's center

                    Looking back towards Fort Bowie and the Dragoon Mountains

Madera Canyon, Santa Rita Mountains November 2016

                      Quintin above Madera Canyon on the Dutch John Spring Trail

Location and General Information: The Santa Rita Mountains extend 28 miles north and south east of Tucson. The highest mountain in the range is Mount Wrightson at 9,453 feet. Much of the vegetation is pine forest mixing to oak-pine forest at lower ecosystems. Wildlife include mule deer, black bear and mountain lion. The range has 100s of species of birds and visitors come from all over to observe rare birds. Popular areas are Madera Canyon and Whipple Observatory near Mount Hopkins.

Madera Canyon is located about 45 miles southeast of Tucson, Arizona. Take l-19 south of Tucson 24 miles. Take the Continental Road exit. Follow the road until you see East Whitehouse Canyon Road and turn right. Follow the signs the rest of the way to the canyon.

On two consecutive Fridays I took my son Quintin to go hiking in Madera Canyon. The first trip we did about 2.5 miles total on the Dutch John Spring Trail. The second time we started near the Santa Rita Lodge hiking on the Nature Trail about 2.5 miles. If you go I would go during the weekday because Saturdays are extremely busy.

                    Quintin at our lunch spot

                     Scenery on the Nature Trail

                   The high ridge of the Santa Ritas including Mount Wrightson

                          Fall colors

                          High ridge of the Santa Ritas, Mount Wrightson is the mountain far on the right